Go to the Mardi Gras

After our stay at Poverty Point, Louisiana, we headed south toward our next destination, Buccaneer State Park in Waveland, Mississippi.  Buccaneer State Park is just an hour east of New Orleans, which we planned to visit.  

Our map where we register our travels

On our way, we drove part of the Natchez Trace Parkway.  The 444 mile parkway stretches from Nashville, TN to Natchez, MS.  Originally this travel corridor was used by the Natchez, Chickasaw, and Choctaw tribes.  By the late 1700’s, travelers and tradesmen used the route.  As trade progressed, merchants floated goods down the Mississippi River, sold everything in Natchez or New Orleans, and walked the Trace back home to get another load ready to sell.  Slave traders also used the route to move enslaved people throughout the region.  So many people traversed the Trace that sunken sections of the original trail are still visible today.  We stopped several times to see these sections as well as other landmarks along the parkway. 

Part of the original Natchez Trace
Forks of the Road in Natchez, MS. These shackles mark the site of one of the largest slave markets in the United States. The market was at a formerly prominent intersection in the city. Now, just these shackles and a few signs bear witness to the heinous activity that happened here.

By the time we arrived at our campsite in Waveland, it was dark and misting.  Thankfully the campground was well lit so we were able to see as we set up camp.  When we arrive at a camp, we both have certain jobs to do.  We work together to unload the motorcycles then our individual chores begin.  After getting the trailer in the right spot and level, Bill deploys the stabilizers, places the wheel chocks behind the trailer wheels, unhooks the trailer from the truck, connects the electricity, secures the propane tank to the trailer, attaches the kitchen shelf to the trailer, clips a tarp over our sleeping canvas, sets out our lawn chairs and table, stores the motorcycle tie-downs, and refills our water jugs.  Cy’s tasks begin with removing the motorcycle wheel chocks from the trailer floor.  Then she sweeps the floor, unrolls the carpet, extends our sleeping canvas and makes our bed, transfers our clothing tubs from the truck to the trailer, sets up the pantry shelf, removes the Velcro strips that secure our belongings as we travel, and connects the television.  

Our television reception varies greatly, depending on the proximity of a city and the campsite’s terrain.  At several sites, we haven’t received any channels.  At a few campgrounds, we have had over 10 channels.  Granted, some of these stations were home shopping or in Spanish.  While they were watchable, they were not of general interest to us.  At times, we have splurged on a few DVDs.  We set a limit of $5 maximum for a movie.  Thankfully, Walmart and Dollar General have decent cinema selections under our budget limit.  We have seen such gems as Jumanji, Gone With the Wind, the original theatrical releases of The Lord of the Rings trilogy, and Planes, Trains, and Automobiles.  While we enjoyed these films, we really liked 42, about Jackie Robinson and his experience as the first Black baseball player in major league baseball.  Watching this movie about segregation while touring the South made it even more impactful.  If you haven’t watched 42, we highly recommend the film.

In New Orleans, we learned about the city’s multicultural population through its food on a Doctor Gumbo Food Tour.  Our knowledgeable guide pointed out how the people of New Orleans changed the culture and the foods of New Orleans.  Because of its location on the Mississippi River, New Orleans became home to several diverse populations including Choctaw Indians, French and Spanish settlers (later called Creoles), Irish, German, and Italian immigrants, formerly enslaved people from Africa and the West Indies, ‘Kaintucks’ from the Ohio River Valley, and Acadians from Nova Scotia (eventually called Cajuns).  When these people settled in New Orleans, they blended their food traditions and seasonings with the available produce and proteins to become the culinary melting pot that is New Orleans.  On our food tour, we sampled gumbo, muffuletta and po’boy sandwiches, pralines, turtle soup, and bread pudding.  On our own, we had more gumbo, beignets, red beans and rice, étouffée, and crawfish pie.  Really, all we did was eat!  

Crawfish Pie at Cochon
Gumbo at Cochon.
Coffee and beignets from Cafe Du Monde
Turtle soup on our food tour

In addition to eating, we toured the must-see National World War II Museum. 

We spent several hours at the museum and could have stayed for several more.  Unlike other museums we have experienced, this one seeks to capture the voices of the people involved in the conflict.  Each exhibit had personal items displayed along with a story or account of the owner.  These personal histories were moving and thought provoking.  Our hearts were grieved by the reality that some very vocal Americans today scorn our Constitutional freedoms and actively embrace the failed socialist ideals that their grandparents’ and great grandparents’ generations battled to defeat over 75 years ago.  So many died to preserve freedom, yet our nation seems to be sliding toward ‘cancel culture’ and socialism.  The contrast between then and now was stark.  We pray it won’t take another war to defeat those ideas which destroy freedom. 

Fredric Arnold crafted this cast bronze piece from his personal experience flying P-38’s in combat over North Africa, Italy, and Sicily. After six months of missions, he was one of the few men left from his aviation class. The lighter airmen figures portray the spirits of pilots killed on previous missions. More than 88,000 U.S. airmen died during the war. Mr. Arnold completed this moving sculpture at age 94 and he died two years later.
The museum’s airplanes

We planned to stay at our campsite in Waveland for five nights; however, we didn’t plan on Hurricane Zeta.  Since the hurricane was predicted to hit the park, we left a few days early and headed to Florida.  We were glad we did.  The storm’s high winds caused significant power outages and some structural damage.  Our little Intech Flyer home would not have stood a chance! 

The gulf on our last night in the area. Two nights later, the hurricane hit here.

Lesson Learned:  Stay off Bourbon Street after 3:00 pm, especially in a large vehicle!

Almost time for us to leave Bourbon Street. After 3:00 pm, the French Quarter becomes very crowded with an interesting mix of eclectic people .

Praying that Jesus shines brightly in New Orleans and that people there accept His gift of life.

For the wages of sin is death, but the gift of God is eternal life in Christ Jesus our Lord. Romans 6:23.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUPkvv4H0V0

Mockin’ Bird Hill

The terrain changes considerably when one travels from Northwest Arkansas to Northeast Louisiana.  The tree covered mountains give way to flat river bottom farmlands.  When we drove the rural highways south of Pine Bluff, Arkansas and into Louisiana, the cotton harvest was underway.  Large round bales of pink and yellow plastic wrapped cotton dotted the edges of fields and stray pieces of cotton floated like snow before settling along the highways’ edges.  For a couple of North Central Kansas kids, the cotton fields and harvest was interesting to observe.  

Ready for harvest

We camped at Poverty Point Reservoir State Park between Epps and Delhi, Louisiana.  In the mornings, the bright call of the mockingbird woke us.  On our first morning, it sounded like a whole flock of songbirds was outside our camper but we soon realized it was just a few mockingbirds.  Their bright and varied songs were new to us but what a joyful sound!  Listening to the mockingbirds was one of our favorite things about camping in Louisiana. We didn’t record any of the birds, so here is a link to a mockingbird singing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNNX3f3_svo

About twice a day, some fellow campers walked through the campground.  Since we cook our meals outside and use the truck’s tailgate as our kitchen counter, the husband would ask, “What’s on the tailgate tonight?”  We had a really nice chat with them and some friends of theirs.  They were all natives of Louisiana, retired, and genuine people of faith. They treated us to some delicious zucchini bread too.       

Poverty Point World Heritage Site was just a 20 minute ride from our camp.  Constructed by indigenous people between 1700 and 1100 BC, Poverty Point consists of several earthen mounds and six concentric C-shaped ridges.  Archeologists believe the area was a massive trading and ceremonial center for the native peoples.  Not much of the site has been excavated so there is a great deal more yet to learn about these mysterious land creations and the people who formed them.  

The largest mound. A wooden boardwalk goes to the top.
View from the top of the largest mound. To gain perspective of the height and size of the mound, our motorcycles are near the shelter.

After Poverty Point World Heritage Site, we decided to ride to West Monroe to see if we could find the Duck Commander headquarters.  

In the gift shop, a tee-shirt said, “Arise, Kill, Eat” from the vision Peter had in Acts 10:13.

The roads in this part of Louisiana are fairly flat.  In some places, swamps exist on either side of the highway.  While we watched for alligators, we didn’t see any although a black snake raced across the road right in front of us.  Thankfully, we missed him and he missed us!   

After our ride, hair by Shoei

One sunny day, we rode our bikes to nearby Vicksburg, Mississippi.  The bluffs along the Mississippi River were more interesting to ride than the river bottom of Louisiana. 

Down by the river (but not in a van!)
The mighty Mississippi

Vicksburg was a crucial city during the Civil War; whoever controlled it, controlled the lower Mississippi River.  In early 1862, the Vicksburg Campaign began and the campaign ended when the Confederates surrendered on July 4, 1863.  The battle and siege raged for a year and a half.  Over 48,000 lives were lost.  Soldiers from Missouri were present on both sides of the conflict.  Kansans fought for the Union.

This monument honors the 42 Missouri units (27 Union and 15 Confederate) present at Vicksburg. It stands where two opposing Missouri regiments met in battle.

Because of Covid, the National Military Park was closed but the 16 mile driving loop was open.  We started riding through the battlefield with Cy making frequent stops to take photos.  We soon realized we wouldn’t make it through the park before it closed if she stopped at every interesting marker.  Later we learned that over 1,400 monuments and markers dot the winding road through the battlefield commemorating the soldiers and commanders who fought and died on that hallowed ground.  The drive was a solemn reminder of the high cost of freedom and the sacrifice that was made to keep America ‘one nation, under God.’  Our country isn’t perfect, but knowing so many people bled and died in that hilly forested area and how many loved ones grieved their deaths was sobering.   

Battle lines were present throughout the drive.

Touring the South makes us more aware of the complexity of man and our history.  Many men we honor did some terrible, immoral things, including the enslavement of people.  As Johnny Cash sang in the song Best Friend “A diamond is a diamond and a stone is a stone, but a man’s not all good nor all bad. When the chips are all down and your back’s at the wall, God is the best friend that you’ve ever had, God is the best friend that you’ve ever had.”   We all need Jesus.  In Him, all sin can be forgiven, even the heinous act of slavery.  Jesus offers freedom and life for all who believe in Him.  “But thanks be to God, who gives us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ!” 1 Corinthians 15:57

The silent cannons and clouds display the horror of war and the hope yet to come. “Then they will see the Son of Man coming in clouds with great power and glory.” Mark 13:26