Although we were done camping for a while, we were not done traveling. Our first destination was Galveston, Texas. We went there, chasing sunshine and warmth. While we did find that, we also found lots to explore in this Gulf Coast town.
On the surface, Galveston reminded us of New Orleans. Many restaurants touted Cajun fare; several houses mirrored those found in the French Quarter. Mardi Gras seemed to be a common theme too. While the cities had similarities, Galveston was much easier to navigate and far less crowded.
Of course we spent time at the beach. The water was brown and murky but we love the sound of the surf pounding the shoreline. When we are at the ocean, we can’t ignore that constant deep rumble and crash of the breaking waves. In the Bible, God’s voice is described like the sound of many waters (Ezekiel 43:2). For now, God speaks to mankind gently, through His word. However one day, His thundering voice will resound throughout the earth, causing every knee to bow and every tongue to confess Jesus as Lord (Philippians 2:10-11). Listening to the waves reminds us of that great and terrible day of the Lord yet to come (Joel 2:31). Are you ready? If you are not sure of that answer, get to know Jesus. He is the way, the truth, and the life. (John 14:6)
As we walked along the coast, we delightfully demolished some of the abundant thin shells that littered the beach. These channeled duck clam shells made a satisfying crunch beneath our feet, surpassing even the best dry leaves of autumn.
In 1900, a devastating hurricane hit Galveston. One third of the city was destroyed and over 6000 residents were killed. Two of the buildings that withstood the storm are now museums that we toured: the Bishop’s Palace and the Moody Mansion.
The Bishop’s Palace was built over six years and completed in 1892 for Colonel Walter Gresham and his family. Col. Gresham made his fortune as a lawyer, entrepreneur, and as a founder of the Santa Fe Railroad. In 1923, the Roman Catholic Diocese of Galveston purchased the home for the bishop’s residence. In 1963, the Diocese along with the Galveston Historical Foundation opened the home for tours.
In 1900 after the hurricane, the W.L. Moody Jr. family bought the house that came to be known as the Moody Mansion. He paid $20,000 for the home, purchasing it from Olive Willis, whose widowed mother had built the house in 1895.
W.L. Moody Jr. was a diversified businessman with interests in banking, cotton, insurance, hotels, newspapers, and ranching. His oldest daughter, Mary, headed Moody enterprises after her father’s death. When Mary died in 1986, the mansion became a museum under the guidance of the Moody Foundation, honoring the family’s contributions to Galveston and Texas.
In the gardens of Ashton Villa stands a statue of Major General Gordon Granger. On June 19, 1865, Major General Granger arrived in Galveston and read General Order No. 3, proclaiming that all slaves were free. “The people of Texas are informed that, in accordance with a proclamation from the Executive of the United States, all slaves are free. This involves an absolute equality of personal rights and rights of property between former masters and slaves, and the connection heretofore existing between them becomes that between employer and hired labor. The freedmen are advised to remain quietly at their present homes and work for wages. They are informed that they will not be allowed to collect at military posts and that they will not be supported in idleness either there or elsewhere.” This day is now celebrated as Juneteenth.
The Strand Historic District is a fun area of restored historic buildings now occupied by restaurants and gift shops. We discovered it was Galveston’s Restaurant Week and nearly every restaurant offered happy hour food and drink specials. We enjoyed many delicious dishes at Willie G’s Seafood and Steaks, Riondo’s Ristorante, Shrimp ’N Stuff, and The Sunflower Bakery & Cafe.
Our favorite meal was on Seawall Boulevard at Miller’s Seawall Grill. We shared jalapeños stuffed with crab, Basa fish, shrimp, and peach cobbler. Delicious!
On our way home from Galveston, we were nearing a town where we planned to eat lunch. As we discussed our lunch options, a Texas Ranger stopped Cy for speeding. She explained that we were chatting and she wasn’t paying close attention to her speed. After taking her license and insurance card, the officer returned with a warning (thankfully!). Since police tend to know the best local places, she asked the officer for his lunch suggestion. He seemed surprised by the question but he did have a recommendation. If you’re ever in Henderson, Texas, stop by Hush Puppies for some catfish. Tell them a Texas Ranger sent you!
Lesson Learned: Cheap eats makes a happy hour…or two!